Island Peak, also known as Imja Tse, is a popular climbing peak in Nepal’s Khumbu region. It lies in the Sagarmatha National Park and towers at 6165 M / 20226 FT.
The Island Peak is generally classified as non-technical even though the route involves glacier crossing and steep ice headwall. It is suitable for the fit trekkers with basic mountaineering skills.
According to the Nepal Himal Peak Profile, Hansrudolf Von Gunten and two other Sherpas first climbed Island Peak in 1956.
Table of Contents
| Feature | Details |
|---|---|
| Altitude | 6165 M / 20226 FT |
| Region | Khumbu (Everest) Region, Nepal |
| Duration | 16 Days |
| Difficulty Level | Moderate to strenuous |
| Accommodation | Lodges/Tea Houses and Camping |
| Best Season | Spring (March to May) and Autumn (September to November) |
Why is it called Island Peak?
A British mountaineer, Eric Shipton, named Island Peak in 1952 because it looks like an island in a sea of ice when viewed from the Dingboche village. The peak is surrounded by glaciers and other peaks.
The name “Imja Tse” is derived from the Imja Valley, where the peak is located. “Imja” refers to the local region, while “Tse” means “peak” in Tibetan. Together, “Imja Tse” essentially translates to “Imja Peak,” reflecting its geographical position in the Imja Khola valley of the Everest region.
What is the official name of Island Peak?
The official name of Island Peak is “Imja Tse“, which is used locally in Nepal. The name “Imja” is derived from the Imja Valley, where the peak is located.
“Imja” refers to the local region, while “Tse” means peak in Tibetan. Together, “Imja Tse” reflects the position of the peak in the Imja Khola Valley of the Everest region.
What mountains can we see from the summit of Island Peak?
Climbers are rewarded with panoramic views of mountain giants like Mount Lhotse (8,516 m), Mount Makalu (8,485 m), Mount Nuptse (7,861 m), and Ama Dablam (6,812 m).
We can see the sea of snow-covered mountains across the Khumbu region. This view provides the best experience for climbers, whether experienced or beginners.
Comparison Between Island Peak and Mera Peak
Although Mera Peak and Island Peak are located in the Khumbu (Everest) region, they also have some differences. Here is the comparison between the Island and Mera Peak:
| Feature | Island Peak | Mera Peak |
|---|---|---|
| Altitude | 6,189 meters (20,305 ft) | 6,476 meters (21,247 ft) |
| Location | Imja Valley, Khumbu Region | Hinku Valley, Khumbu Region |
| Difficulty | Moderate to Strenuous | Strenuous |
| Climbing Skills | Requires basic mountaineering skills | Requires basic mountaineering skills |
| Summit View | Lhotse, Makalu, Nuptse, Ama Dablam | Everest, Makalu, Lhotse, Cho Oyu |
| Duration | 16 Days | 18 Days |
| Best Season | Spring (March-May) and Autumn (Sep-Nov) | Spring (March-May) and Autumn (Sep-Nov) |
| Accommodation | Tea Houses and Camping | Tea Houses and Camping |
| Trekking Route | Passes through Chhukung and Dingboche | Passes through Zatrwa La Pass and Thagnak |
| Popularity | Less crowded compared to Mera Peak | More popular due to higher altitude |
| Physical Fitness | Requires good physical condition | Requires excellent endurance |
| Technical Difficulty | Involves climbing with fixed ropes and using crampons | Less technical, mainly snow and ice walk |
| Glacier Crossing | Yes, involves glacier travel | Yes, glacier sections but fewer technical challenges |
| Climbing Permit Cost | Moderate (compared to Everest region climbs) | Higher due to special peak permits |
| Required Gear | Crampons, ice axe, harness, ropes | Crampons, ice axe, harness |
Also read: Mera Peak Climbing Adventure: Conquer the Highest Trekking Peak in 18 Days
Island Peak Climbing Difficulty
The Island Peak is considered a moderately difficult climb, where the climbers require basic mountaineering skills.
Climbers are required to have rope-handling skills, be comfortable with glacier travel, and wear crampons.
Climbers are provided with pre-climb training at the base camp to get accustomed to the gear for the next day’s summit climbing.
Best Time to Climb Island Peak
Spring and Autumn are the best seasons to visit the Island Peak. The best seasons for trekking in Nepal are October and November, i.e. Autumn. Spring season treks are best for those trekkers who love greenery, flowers and scenic ambience.
The best time to climb Island Peak is the same as for Nepal’s other peak climbing or trekking destinations. The weather should be clear and stable, and the temperature should be warm, which makes the view clear and easy for the climbers.
Itinerary for Island Peak
Day 1: Arrival in Kathmandu
Our team will be waiting to greet and welcome you to the amazing Island Peak expedition. On this very first day, you will be escorted to your hotel, which is a short drive, about 30 minutes. We let you rest on this day and be prepared for the next day to enjoy the trip.
Day 2: Fly to Lukla and Trek to Phakding
On this day, we will take a direct flight from Kathmandu to Lukla, passing through stunning mountains. The breathtaking views of the majestic Himalayas will surely take your breath away during your flight. After reaching the Lukla airport, we will need to take care of the gear that will assist us in climbing the Island Peak.
At Lukla airport (Tenzin Hilary Airport), you can have some hot coffee and a short break. We prepare for the trek by wearing trekking clothes, a hat, and lotion.
Your trekking will start from the Lukla airport towards Phakding, along with some potters (according to your luggage) and your friendly Himalaya Safety Treks and Expeditions guide.
| Lukla to Phakding | |
|---|---|
| Starting Location | Lukla (2,840 m / 9,317.585 ft) |
| Ending Location | Phakding (2,610 m / 8,562.992 ft) |
| Walking Distance | 7.5 km / 4.6 miles |
| Walking Duration | 3:00 hrs |
| Elevation Decline | -230 m / -754.593 ft |
During the walk from Lukla to Phakding, you will see Mani rocks, walls, prayer flags, Mount Kongde, and Kusum Kangaroos. The tail gradually ascends from Thadokoshi to Ghat and descends to Phakding for the final part. We will call it a night at the Phakding for this day.
Day 3: Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar
On the third day, after breakfast, you will start the trek early in the morning. You will cross the river and trek through the forest of rhododendrons and blue pines, which will be a nightmare.
Wait! Your nightmare still needs to be finished. You have to experience more. The snow-capped Kusum Kanguru (6,369m) and Thamserku (6,623m) will welcome you. You will experience this welcome of mountains after walking through the Dudh Koshi at Benkar.
You will reach Namche Bazaar after climbing a challenging uphill. Now enjoy the stunning views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, and Ama Dablam.
Day 4: Acclimatization Day in Namche Bazaar
On this day, you will acclimate to Namche Bazaar, a wonderful village on the mountain. The panoramic views of the Khumbu Peaks, including Everest, will break your heart. After having breakfast at Namche Bazaar, you can choose to hike to Thami (3,810m) along the Bhote Khola Valley. You can also visit the local museum and National Park headquarters, where you will witness the Sherpa culture and lifestyle.
Day 5: Trek from Namche Bazaar to Tengboche
On this day, you’ll descend through Khumjung village and reconnect near Shanasa, the main trail to Everest. Now, you descend steeply to the Dudh Koshi at Phunkitenga (3250m) and climb steadily through pine, fir and rhododendron forests. If you choose to trek from early spring to late summer, you will be amazed at the forest of rhododendron flowers in various colours.
Now, you will reach the Tengboche Monastery, surrounded by the most iconic Himalayan peaks, including Everest and Ama Dablam. To end the amazing day, you’ll spend the night at a lodge at Tengboche.
Day 6: Trek from Tengboche to Dingboche
This day begins with a descent through birch and juniper forests after breakfast. You will gain more altitude after a steady climb through the forest. Now, you must cross the Imja Khola River to reach the village of Pangboche, which has magnificent views of Ama Dablam. The trail then climbs across open alpine slopes to Dingboche, where you’ll spend the night.
Day 7: Trek from Dingboche to Chhukung
Chhukung Valley is located beneath a vast rock face connecting Nuptse and Lhotse. You’ll trek to the Chhukung Valley today where you can enjoy the stunning views of Ama Dablam (6,856m), one of the most photogenic peaks in the Himalayas. You will stay at Chhukung enjoying the view on this day.
Day 8: Acclimatization: Climb Chhukung Ri and Trek Back to Chhukung
Acclimatization is the key to trekking at such a height, so you’ll spend the day acclimatizing with a climb to Chhukung Ri. This peak is situated directly above the Chhukung village and offers incredible views of the surrounding Himalayan giants.
Climbing Chhukung Ri should help your body adjust to the high altitude. Afterwards, return to Chhukung for the night to adjust to the high altitude further.
Day 9: Trek from Chhukung to Island Peak Base Camp
We are close to our destination. You’ll leave Chhukung and start towards the Island peak base camp on this day. The route follows the Imja Khola River and eventually leads you to Pareshaya Gyab, a serene location near a small lake, where you’ll set up camp for the night.
Day 10: Pre-Climb Training at Island Peak Base Camp
This is the day you get your climbing training. You’ll learn more about the basic climbing techniques, including rope, ice axe handling, harness, ascender, and walking with the crampon, from our experienced guide.
You must ensure you are well prepared for climbing the Island Peak with enough practice. The training experience you gain this day will help boost your confidence and the climbing skills necessary for climbing the island peak.
Remember that the use of rope and the length of the practice on this day completely depend upon the season, weather, and crevasses (deep cracks).
After enough practice, you’ll spend the night at the base camp. Remember that you have to wake up very early the next day.
Day 11: Summit Island Peak (6,160m) and Return to Base Camp
This is the day you have been waiting for. You will summit the Island peak, which is 6165 m high.
If the weather is clear, we will start our day very early, around 1 a.m., and start the climb after having breakfast. We are starting the climb early because the weather will worsen with strong winds as the day gets late.
You’ll also walk through the sand, grass, and scattered rocky path. For safety, we use both the fixed rope and the man rope. As we climb the steep rock channel, the path will become narrower and steeper.
We will reach the top and enjoy watching the peaks just before our eyes. You can take tons of pictures at the peak of the Island Peak.
On the same day, we will return to the base of the Island Peak and then to the Chukung to end the day.
Day 12: Trek from Island Peak Base Camp to Pangboche
Now, you will trek down back to Pangboche after experiencing the exciting and challenging experience of summiting the Island peak, following the familiar trail through the same picturesque alpine scenery.
Day 13: Trek from Pangboche to Namche Bazaar
Your memory of the view from the peak of Island Peak will still be fresh as you retrace your steps back to Namche Bazaar. Enjoy the change in altitude and soak in the last views of the majestic peaks that have accompanied you.
Day 14: Trek from Namche Bazaar to Lukla
On your final trekking day, follow the trail back to Lukla. Take your time to enjoy the scenery one last time and celebrate your incredible journey with your fellow trekkers.
Day 15: Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu
You’ll take an early morning flight back to Kathmandu. Once you’ve landed, you’ll have the rest of the day to relax, explore the city, or do some last-minute shopping.
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